Welcome to your deep dive into the art (and science) of working with low porosity, curly, or coily hair! If you’ve ever wrestled with trying to get curls defined, moisture to stay in (not just sit on top), or wondered how to get a long-lasting style without spending all day in the salon, this post is for you.
I've broken down this step-by-step guide, inspired by a hands-on hair session, into easy sections so you can follow along—whether you’re totally new to this or you’ve been at it for years. We’ll be talking about prepping, sectioning, product selection, the magic of water ratios, and definition techniques—all with tons of friendly advice along the way.
Table of Contents
- Getting Ready: What You Really Need
- Sectioning: The Secret to Not Losing Your Mind
- Choosing Tools: Old School vs. New Clips
- The Right Way to Section Curly Hair
- Product Application: It’s All About Technique
- Water: The Underdog of Curly Hair
- Hair Washing Frequency: How Often is Right for YOU?
- Defining Curls Like a Pro: Pinning, Squishing & More
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Final Tips & Recap
Getting Ready: What You Really Need
Let’s start simple. Before the magic happens, you need a few items:
- Detangling Brush: Seriously, don’t skip this. You need something that glides through, is easy to clean, and isn’t going to rip your hair out.
- Clips: Old-school sectioning clips (the big ones, not the alligator or “gator” clips) are the real MVPs for keeping hair separated without snapping.
- Moisturizing Hair Pudding: Something creamy but not heavy.
- Get Set Hair Jelly: For hold and real curl pop.
- Spray Bottle with Water: Don’t sleep on this.
- Drying: Hooded dryer/soft bonnet dryer and towel.
Pro Tip: Clarify your hair when you’re starting any new product line to get a real feel for how it will work in your hair.
Sectioning: The Secret to Not Losing Your Mind
If you’ve ever been overwhelmed by a heap of hair, you’re not alone. Sectioning is how you keep your sanity and make sure every part of your hair gets love.
“The first thing I’m going to do is section your hair, because this way we can—you know, it’s not going to be so overwhelming when you do sections. I’m sure you already know that.”
Why section?
- Controls the chaos, especially with thick/dense hair.
- Ensures even product distribution.
- Makes detangling and styling manageable.
How to Section Like a Pro
- Start at the Nape: Work from the back of your head up, not from the middle parting.
- Go Side to Side: Ignore those YouTube vids where people split their hair down the center and style each side. That creates a hard line no one wants.
- Smaller is Better: Big sections can be overwhelming and cause product to go on unevenly. Go smaller as needed.
Choosing Tools: Old School vs. New Clips
If you think the right tools don’t matter, try breaking a clip halfway through your hair routine!
“These are, like, old school, but these are the best clips… those gator clips always break. These last forever.”
There’s a reason stylists reach for the classics. Old-school, heavy-duty sectioning clips hold even dense, heavy hair and can survive years of use—sometimes, they “have birthdays” of their own. If you’ve got a head full of hair, grab a few.
The Right Way to Section Curly Hair
A common mistake—parting your hair right down the middle and working from there—which, when dry, can leave a visible “demarcation line.”
Do this instead:
- Section in Rows: Start at the nape, working upwards.
- Avoid Center Parting for Styling: This helps your curls dry without that hard crease.
- Adjust Sections Based on Density: The thicker your hair, the smaller your sections should be.
Product Application: It’s All About Technique
Now it’s time to put product in! But hold up—how you apply matters way more than just what brand you use.
Step-by-Step Product Breakdown
1. Drench Your Hair First
“I like to start with soaking wet hair. With low porosity, you can see how the water just sits on top, which means we’ve gotta, like, work it in.”
- If your hair is low porosity, water will bead and sit on top.
- Use your fingers and a spray bottle to work water in. Don’t move on until the hair feels drenched.
2. Light Layer of Leave-In
- A little goes a long way with the Moisturizing Hair Pudding (maybe a quarter-size per section).
- Too much can weigh hair down and leave residue.
“Sometimes people overuse this product and then they get mad and I’m like, I told you to use a little bit.”
Application Tips:
- Focus on even distribution—fingers first, then brush.
- If the product isn’t absorbing, add more water not more leave-in.
- Hair should feel slippery, not coated.
3. Detangling
Don’t skip this! Use your detangling brush to evenly work product throughout each section.
- Always detangle from the ends upward.
- Brushing after leave-in helps reduce breakage and maximizes slip.
4. Apply Curl Definition Jelly
Add a small amount of your Get Set Hair Jelly over each section.
- Use your fingers to ‘rake’ the product in (not just slap it on).
- Hear a “squishy sound”? That means you’re doing it right! It’s the sound of full saturation.
“That squishy sound—that means we’re working that product into your hair.”
Water: The Underdog of Curly Hair
Water isn’t just for wash day. For low porosity hair, water is the key ingredient most folks aren’t using enough of.
- Use a spray bottle: At every step. If a section dries, rewet it before adding more product.
- Test absorption: Product “sitting on top” means you need more water. If things get sticky, don’t add more product; add water.
“Our hair needs to be soaking, uncomfortably wet.”
Why Water Matters:
When hair is low porosity (i.e., water beads on instead of sinking in), products will just sit on the surface unless you force water in. If you colored your hair and then stopped, your hair porosity changed! Adjust your water levels accordingly.
Product & Water Ratio: Finding Your Sweet Spot
If your hair ever feels stiff or crunchy—without enough water—chances are your product-to-water ratio is off.
Try this:
- Always err on the side of more water—dripping wet.
- Adjust product amounts down if you’re not seeing “slip.”
Real Talk: Washing Frequency—How Often Should You Shampoo?
If you’ve ever wondered why your hair feels like hay two weeks after a wash, you’re not alone.
“If you’re waiting two weeks to a month to wash your hair—and you’re not putting water back into it—what do you think is going to happen?”
The Sweet Spot
- Every 7-10 days: For most, washing weekly or every week and a half is right.
- Skipping wash days for weeks causes dryness and breakage, especially for type 4 hair.
- Listen to your hair! If it feels dry, up the frequency a little.
“Type 4 hair absolutely needs [water] the most.”
Definition Techniques: How to Get Poppin’ Curls
Now for the part everyone wants: Definition that lasts.
1. Pinning After Product
After putting in your product, gently pin the section against your head.
- This forces the hair to absorb product, especially important for resistant, low porosity curls.
- Leave pinned while you work on the rest.
2. Squish, Don’t Scrunch
Instead of scrunching (which works best on type 2/3 hair), try “squishing”—pressing the hair upward in your hands to really work in water and product.
- Helps fight frizz and uneven definition.
- Makes sure every coil, even thick sections, get equal love.
“We’re not having patches of definition and then patches where no definition at all… That’s where squishing comes in.”
3. Drying for Definition
- Use a hooded or soft bonnet dryer, especially if hair is very thick or takes hours to air dry.
- Dry while pinned for 15-20 minutes.
- Once partially dry, take hair down so it finishes drying with more movement and less shrinkage.
“What I typically do is dry my hair under the hooded dryer with my hair all up for like 15, 20 minutes, and then I take it down and then I’ll start to see… okay, it’s absorbed the product.”
Dealing with Multiple Curl Patterns
If you notice some spots are curly, some wavy, and some zig-zaggy—you are not alone.
“It’s weird because in some places, it looks defined, and then other places it looks zigzaggy and they might be next to each other… Not everyone’s gonna have, like, a defined curl, but it’s still curly.”
- Front looks wavy, back is coily: Super common.
- Adjust product/water for each section if needed: The crown or back may need more TLC.
- Embrace the different curl personalities.
Volume vs. Definition: What's Your Style?
Some love big, fluffy hair right away. Others want maximum definition to stretch out wash day results.
- Pinned/defined method: Results in sleeker, more long-lasting definition (which can be fluffed out later).
- Skip pinning for big hair right away: But you’ll probably be restyling more often.
- “When your hair is this dense, volume is not the problem. It’s getting it controlled that’s the issue.”
Frequently Asked Questions
1. My hair isn’t absorbing product—what do I do?
- Add more water, not more product.
- Work in sections, keep them small.
2. How much product should I really use?
- Start with a quarter-sized amount per section.
- Only add more if a section feels dry or is not fully covered.
3. Drying tips for dense hair?
- Use a hooded or soft bonnet dryer for 15-20 minutes.
- Finish drying in the air or with a diffuser to avoid shrinkage/frizz.
4. How do I maintain my style all week?
- Sleep with a silk/satin scarf or bonnet.
- Refresh sections with water mist and a tiny bit of leave-in each morning.
5. How often should I clarify or deep condition?
- Clarify monthly if you use lots of product.
- Deep condition at least every other week for optimal moisture.
“Volume is not the problem. It’s getting it controlled.”
Final Tips & Recap
The Complete Routine: Step-by-Step
- Prep your hair: Detangle with lots of water.
- Section: Use old-school clips, starting at the nape.
- Drench each section: Hair should be dripping wet.
- Apply leave-in: Use less than you think.
- Brush through: For even product distribution.
- Add curl jelly: Rake with fingers, listen for that “squish.”
- Pin each completed section: Helps hair absorb product.
- Repeat for all sections.
- Dry under hooded/soft bonnet dryer: Keeps curl form.
- Take down & style as desired—fluff or go!
"Don’t fret over different curl patterns. Your hair tells its own story—give it moisture, patience, and the right products, and you’ll see it shine in its own way!"
Want Even More Curl Tips?
- Try experimenting with product amounts and water ratios every few washes to see what your hair really likes.
- Track your results on your phone or in a journal.
- Don’t be afraid to ask stylists for their favorite old-school techniques—you’ll be surprised what lasts the test of time!
- And most important—have fun with your hair. It’s one of a kind, just like you.
Share Your Results!
Have you tried this method? Got a tip you swear by? Drop them in the comments below or tag us in your next wash day photo.
“Some people like big hair, and I think it looks good, but with big hair, I’m not going to get that long out of my style… Once a week is more than enough, especially with how long it takes to wash your hair and do everything. Oh my God. Yes.”
